Just Cruises Plus

The Braves by French sculptor Anilore Banon – Omaha Beach

My uncle landed on Omaha Beach less than a month after D-Day. He was killed in action less than two months later near Paris. Seventy-one years later, my cousin, Richard, and I planned a trip to France where we would tour the towns and villages where he fought until his death. We left Philadelphia, together with my wife, Rachelle, and John, a friend of Richard’s, in mid August on our two week pilgrimage.

I won’t dwell on the details of the battles fought by my uncle but I would like to share our experiences in France. During our two weeks in France, we stayed in three bed and breakfasts (Normandy) and one apartment (Paris). This virtually insured that we would mingle with the local residents and, equally important, would keep our costs under control.

Charming Port of Honfleur in Normandy

As we left Charles De Gaulle airport in our rented car, we noticed that the French roads are in better shape than ours and are much cleaner (not so many McDonald’s wrappers along the hi-ways). We had some extra time before arriving at our first chateau, so we made a slight detour and headed to Honfleur.

The American Cemetery at Omaha Beach

Our first bed and breakfast was at a chateau owned by a retired Colonel in the British Royal Marines (Britain’s most elite warriors) and his wife, who was an expert in the history of Normandy, particularly its medieval history. This turned out to be perfect for us. We not only had a first rate experience at the chateau, but the Colonel drove us to Omaha Beach (where the Americans landed), Pointe du Hoc (made famous by the U.S. Rangers) and the American Cemetery.   The quality of this tour was fantastic. While the colonel was much too young to have been part of the D-Day landings, being a military officer gave him insights that other guides simply cannot match. When you take a tour with the Colonel, your lunch is included and he eats with you and shares his experiences and answers your questions (another bonus).

Pointe du Hoc Ranger Monument

Villedieu-les-Poeles – A town that we visited in Normandy

On our second day with the Colonel, he drove us through many of the quaint villages where my uncle fought with the 3rd Armored Division.  They look much different than they looked 71 years ago.

Mortain was a major 3rd Armored Division battle site.  View of Mortain’s main street in 1944.

Mortain’s main street in 2015

The Colonel and his wife’s bed and breakfast was not typical.  We also got dinner as well as drinks before dinner and, if you are going on a tour with the Colonel, a talk by the Colonel on what you will be seeing the next day. The meals were prepared by a young Norman woman and were outstanding. The colonel’s wife, Sharon, had a wonderful sense of humor and she kept the conversation moving at dinner. Our rooms were spotless and had private bathrooms with plumbing more modern than most of our US hotels (this was true of all of the bed and breakfasts where we stayed as well as the apartment).   If you are a history buff (WWII, British or French), and you want a welcoming place to stay, we highly recommend this chateau.  For more information, call us.

First B&B – View of dining room and main entrance from hallway

First B&B – View from 2nd floor french windows

First B&B – sitting room

Our 2nd Bed and Breakfast was more like a castle.  It was immense and it was owned by a real French Count.  We’ll post more about this B & B in 2 weeks.  Stay tuned.

Tags: American Cemetery, Bed & Breakfast, Honfleur, Mortain, Normandy, Paris, Pointe du Hoc, Villedieu-les-Poeles